One Left Stage Crossover

One Right Stage Crossover

6 pieces clear shrink tube

6 small crimp barrels

14 3" black drywall screws

14 black screw shoulder washers

2 feet solder

Phillip's head screw driver

Wire cutter/stripper/crimper

#10 nut driver

needle nose pliers

soldering iron (suggested)

heat gun (suggested) or lighter

Carefully lay the Stage on its face.

With a Phillips head screw driver, remove the six screws that hold the crossover plate in place.

Rotate the plate and place it on the bottom edge of the woofer panel.

With the #10 nut driver, remove the binding post nut holding down the red woofer panel wire.

With the #10 nut driver, remove the binding post nut holding down the blue tweeter ribbon wire.

With the wire cutter, cut the black wire going to the 80uF capacitor bank about 1/2" from the bank, leaving a little of the black insulated wire behind.

With the wire cutter, cut the white tweeter wire going to the 10uF capacitor about 1/2" from the solder joint, leaving a little of the white insulated wire behind.

Remove the original crossover and set aside.

The North Creek crossovers are made specifically for the Left or Right speaker. The way to determine which is which is to place a crossover with the components showing on the bottom edge of the woofer panel, such that the binding posts go into the original crossover chamber and the North Creek crossover box sits flat.

Look very carefully at the photo above to see the wiring. It is tight. This photo can also be viewed in full color on our web site.

Strip 1/4" from the black woofer panel wire and crimp it to the tinned buss wire that is siliconed above the large woofer inductor. Solder if you feel it is necessary.

Take the red woofer panel wire and shrink clear shrink tube over the barrel end of the connector, leaving the ring section uninsulated. Remove the nut on the Black binding post, place the Red woofer panel wire on the post along with the Black crossover wires, and return the nut. Tighten. NOTE: if there is not enough thread to reattach the nut, you may have to remove both nuts from the binding post, place both the Black crossover wires and the Red woofer panel wire on the post, then tighten them down with a single nut.

Strip 1/4" from the white tweeter ribbon wire. Crimp it to the tinned buss wire above the larger tweeter inductor. Solder if you feel it is necessary.

Locate the blue tweeter panel wire. Shrink clear shrink tube over the crimp section of the connector, leaving the ring section uninsulated. Remove the nut on the blue binding post, and add the blue tweeter ribbon wire to the post along with the blue crossover wire. Replace the nut and tighten. NOTE: if there is not enough thread to reattach the nut, you may have to remove both nuts from the binding post, place both the Blue crossover wires and the Blue tweeter ribbon wire on the post, then tighten them down with a single nut.

Carefully "roll" the new crossover over and into place. The binding posts should be just below the woofer panel and the mounting holes should line up. We drilled the holes through our cabinet quite large so there is considerable play. Place a black shoulder wash under the head of the 3" black drywall screw. Install all six screws loosly through the North Creek crossover cabinet and into the original mounting holes, then tighten all six.

Carefully play some music at a very low volume level to make sure everything is working properly.

Sit back and enjoy.

Break In:

The big woofer coil and the film-foil caps take about 50 hours of hard playing time to break in, so don't judge too quickly. The midrange will be a little forward and the top end a bit brittle at first but it will pass. Just give it time.